Lima is the Peru stop most travellers rush through on the way to Cusco, which is a mistake. The city is the current engine of South American food (Maido, Central and Astrid y Gastón all sit in the top 50 global restaurants), the colonial centre is a UNESCO site, and the Miraflores clifftops are a free Pacific sunset nobody puts in the guidebooks.
Food first. Lima’s defining tradition is Nikkei (Japanese-Peruvian) and chifa (Chinese-Peruvian) fusion. Try the ceviche at La Mar, lomo saltado at a chifa in Centro, anticuchos de corazón from a street cart in Barranco. Dinner at Central or Maido needs a reservation two months ahead; the local chains (Punto Azul, La Lucha) are nearly as good at a fraction of the price.
Neighbourhoods: Centro for the colonial architecture (San Francisco catacombs, Plaza Mayor), Miraflores for the clifftop park and the modern restaurants, Barranco for the bohemian art scene and the Puente de los Suspiros.
Pre-Columbian history: Huaca Pucllana is a working archaeological site in the middle of Miraflores. Larco Museum has the best pre-Columbian collection in the country.
Transport: use the Metropolitano bus or taxis booked through the Beat or inDrive apps. Avoid flagging taxis on the street.
Three nights is the right length for Lima before you fly on to Cusco.
