Lima is the busiest capital on the Pacific coast of South America, with a food scene that regularly ranks among the world’s best. A short visit here is worth doing properly.
Start with the food. Peruvian cooking fuses indigenous, Spanish, African, Chinese and Japanese traditions — the Nikkei (Peruvian-Japanese) and Chifa (Peruvian-Chinese) crossovers are both worth tracking down. Try ceviche at a cebichería around noon when the fish is freshest, and causa (cold mashed-potato terrine, usually with chicken or tuna) at Mercado de Surquillo. Central and Maido sit on most “world’s 50 best” lists; booking opens a month ahead and fills fast.
The neighbourhoods have strong character. Lima Centro — a UNESCO site — holds the main colonial architecture around the Plaza Mayor. Barranco is the small bohemian quarter south of Miraflores, with street art, galleries and the Bridge of Sighs. Miraflores itself sits along the Pacific cliffs with the Malecón running along the top.
History lives in the museums. Larco Museum (Pueblo Libre) holds the strongest pre-Columbian ceramic collection in the country. Huaca Pucllana, a pre-Inca adobe pyramid, sits mid-Miraflores — walk round it, or eat at the restaurant beside the floodlit ruins at night.
The coast is close. The Malecón runs 10km along the Miraflores clifftop. Paragliders launch from Parque del Amor; surfers work the Costa Verde beaches below.
Transport: skip the combis (minibuses) and micros unless you have time and Spanish — Lima’s traffic is punishing. Uber and Cabify are standard. Allow double the Google Maps estimate.
Peruvians are curious and genuinely friendly to visitors; even broken Spanish gets you a long way. Few trips return without a dinner invitation.
Lima rewards a few days before Cusco. Pace yourself, eat often, and you’ll leave with a different picture of Peru than the altiplano gives you.
